At the conference I signed up for a tour of the DMZ, the demilitirized zone that seperates North and South Korea. It’s only about 50km north of Seoul, which is about 35 miles or so. It was a bizarre time in many ways. Luckily, I hooked up with some Danish philosophers and a Chinese philosopher who shared my sense of humor, so we had a good time while navigating the oddities of this last outpost of the Cold War.
Our first stop was an amusement park(!) 1km from the DMZ. There, we saw the Freedom Bridge, where after the Korean war ended in 1953 there were a series of POW exchanges. Today, the bridge is closed and these strange cartoon characters stand guard. (That’s something none of us could understand, Koreans, and Asians in general, and their fascination with these cartoon figures.)
Next, we passed through a checkpoint where we had to hold open our passports so a South Korean military policeman could inspect them. The kid, who couldn’t have been more than 21, glanced at the passports, bowed as he exited the bus, and we were on our way. And this was only for crossing a bridge into a zone just before the DMZ.
Next stop was the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel. Our guide tells us that in 1978, a tunnel was discovered that was dug by the North Koreans to invade the South. Four such tunnels have been discovered to date, and the South thinks there are at least 20 or more. Just the existence of these tunnels tells you that some brass in the North thought that this might be a good idea. Anyway, we walked about 1,500 feet down an incline tunnel to get to the actual tunnel which is 200+ feet underground. No pictures allowed, although I did see a Swede sneak a photo when we got to the bottom at a steel barrier beyond which the South had planted land mines just in case the North decided to try going through to the South.
At the bottom of the tunnel where we were is actually inside the DMZ and only about 450 feet from the border of North Korea, the closest we’d get to the border.
Next stop was the Dora Observatory. Here we were told that we could only take photos behind a yellow “photo line.” Otherwise, if we violated this rule, we might be sent to a “re-education camp” or some such adventure. (Actually, that’s what the Danes and I came up with, the tour guide didn’t actually say this…)
Here, in the background, is North Korea. Or, as Bush Jr. refers to it, one point of the Axis of Evil.

Towering over the landscape to the left is the tallest flagpole in the world. Back in the 80s, the South Koreans built a flag pole that was 300+ feet tall. Well, the North wouldn’t stand for this, so they built a taller flagpole, 525 feet tall. And thus you have the tallest flagpole in the world! (The logic of warring factions…)
So after all this excitement, passport checking, military and war history, where do we go next? An “amethyst factory.” Or so it was billed. (Mind you, this wasn’t on the program nor part of the tour.) So we get back to the city and arrive in a ritzy part of town where our tour guide tells us you can see actresses and actors walking about and park our bus in front of an office building.
At this point we’re all thoroughly puzzled. Up to the third floor, a woman gives us a brief explanation of how amethyst is mined and polished etc, and then she opens a door and we’re herded into a showroom floor(!) with barking sales clerks holding up amethyst jewelry all around us. The Danes start laughing furiously. None of us can believe it. Why the hell would you take a bunch of philosophers (who aren’t very materialistic to begin with) to an amethyst showroom??? We stood around cracking jokes at this surreal scene. If you took us to a rare bookstore, we could understand. But jewelry?
No sightings of Kim Jong-Il, sorry to say…